Cheval, Kala Ghoda, Mumbai: European Quality and Creativity

Trio of Homemade sorbetOver the past year, I have made many trips to Liv, a popular club based in Kala Ghoda, which is quite a fun and busy club. I really wonder now why I never tried Cheval (same franchise) despite observing large crowds moving between the two venues. Having accepted an invite to try their latest set of European dishes, I now regret not having visited the place before this day.

Cheval is set up as a fun, classy restaurant and lounge that has something for every occasion. The fairly large restaurant seats up to 40 people in one well lit section, has a very large Bar and Lounge section and a private room which can host parties for about 30-40 people. It also has a smoking room near the entrance thus offering ample space and opportunity for groups to hang out for hours at end.

Reaching the spot on a weekday at 8:00 pm, I found about 80% of the tables were already occupied with various groups including partygoers, business groups and shoppers from the neighborhood. I was ushered into a quiet corner by an efficient staff with the table set with a Printed Menu listing all their new dishes available for sampling. The first impression was a good one and I was eager to sample their fare.

3 AppetizersThe sampling started with an appetizer set of Bravia Potatoes (Spicy Sundried Tomato Sauce), Warm Fried Brie (spiced with Guava Vinaigrette and Pineapple Salsa) and Chicken Liver Pate. The Bravia Potatoes were very crispy on the outside with light batter and soft inside with great texture and consistency. The flavour was gentle and pleasant. Definitely a dish I would love to order. The Warm Brie was excellent especially with a mouth-watering pineapple salsa – something I have never tasted before. I savored every last drop of the salsa which also went very well with the potatoes. The Chicken Liver Pate was quite pungent in its after taste and not to my liking.

Meatball AppetizerI was then served the Tender Lamb Balls with Spicy Coconut Curry and a hint of lemon grass. The dish was simply superb with very soft lamb and an interesting combination with coconut curry making it a tad salty in after taste.

Duck SaladThe salad served was a Roasted Duck Salad with Arugula, Pomegranates and Balsamic dressing. My first duck salad that was very hard to put down – the combination of a flavorful, teriyaki dressed cold duck with pomegranates brought about a fresh feeling to the palate with a mix of textures from soft salad to roasted meat to crunchy pomegranates – a truly unique experience. The balsamic dressing on the salad was a 3 thumbs up.

CrepeI moved to the mains with a Multigrain Crepe stuffed with Laal Maath and Beetroot with smoked tomato fondue (has egg) – simply, a master craft that was very well presented and prepared. The beetroot filling was amazing with crunchy crepe supported by a light fondue. I could not stop myself from polishing off the dish despite my bent towards meat. Usually served with 3 pieces of crepe, I was lucky I got only one to sample leaving room to try more dishes.

Fish Main CourseIn the non-vegetarian, I tried the Pan Seared John Dory on a bed of kafir lime risotto, coriander and chimichurri. The fish was slightly over cooked for my liking but packed a super taste with the very well flavored risotto. It was great to see a balance with the flavor of the fish maintained through every bite. The dish was light and comfortable on the palate.

Stuffed ChickenThe last dish was the Stuffed Chicken with Sundried Tomato, Pesto and Pepper Garlic Cream. The chicken was well cooked with a light flavor to support the meat. After the fish, the chicken seemed to be the understated sibling.

Basil PanacottaI now moved to the desserts which turned out to be the highlight of the evening. I started with the Basil Panacotta Strawberry Coulis. It was low on the sweet factor and quite one dimensional but a comfortable dessert that was complimented well by the house coffee.

Next, I tried the Espresso Fudge with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream – a crafty dessert that was heavy on the chocolate yet soft and stable. The ice cream was important to cleanse the palate after every bite.

Trio of Homemade sorbetThe king of their dessert menu was presented last – the Trio of Homemade Sorbet in a white chocolate nest served with Crème Anglaise and Short Bread Soil. The master craftsmanship was displayed proudly with the two sorbet scoops one atop another in a spherical white chocolate nest resting on top of the third sorbet. The presentation was top notch and the flavors bold and complex. A dish that spoke highly of the chef’s creativity and his attention to flavors.

The food overall was best in the main course and desserts with the appetizers lagging a little in their impact on the palate. The use of interesting ingredients sets their menu apart from most restaurants serving standard European meals.

Ratings out of 5

Food: 4.0 | Ambience: 3.5 | Service: 3.0 | Overall: 3.5

Meal for Two without Alcohol: Rs. 2,500 Approximately plus taxes| Alcohol: Yes | Credit Card: Yes|  Timing: 12:30 to 15:30, 19:00 to 24:00 | Wheelchair access: No

Address: Cheval Restaurant and Bar, Next to Rhythm House, Kalaghoda, Mumbai | Telephone: 022 4039 6632

Disclaimer: This review was done on an invitation from the restaurant. Due judgment and care has been applied by the author to remain objective and unbiased in the review; however readers may exercise their own discretion.

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