Kimikai is a fictional character that forms the foundation of the new restaurant, Kimikai – Umami House, at One Horizon Center. The space is designed as Kimikai’s residence, featuring an inviting alfresco area with lush greens, an indoor dining room, and two dedicated bars serving drinks and sushi.
The character itself is intriguing. A human body with the head of a fox, symbolising cunning and sharp instinct, inspired by traders of the spice route who dealt not just in spices but also in opium. This narrative is subtly woven into the interiors, with opium seeds and floral motifs visible across wallpapers and backdrops.
The storytelling is compelling and makes for an engaging first impression. It certainly has the potential to become a talking point. However, as always, the true test lies in the food and service.
I had expected the menu to reflect a broader interpretation of the spice route. Instead, it leans heavily towards Japanese cuisine. While one might be tempted to call it Pan Asian, the restaurant positions itself as an “Umami House.”
I was particularly looking forward to meeting Chef Partner Ruhani Singh, formerly of Zuma, but she was travelling at the time. My dining companion Sourish Bhattacharya seemed rather pleased, insisting that the best way to judge a restaurant is when the head chef is not present.
We began with a tomato carpaccio that was competitively executed. The ginger dressing was well balanced, complemented by the crunch of bubu arare, making for a promising start alongside a gomae salad.
Alongside the starters, I tried a cocktail called Black Pelt. Built along the lines of a highball, it combines whisky with green apple, pandan, and a hint of ginger. Light, refreshing, and easy to drink, it works particularly well as a daytime summer cocktail and pairs effortlessly with the meal without overpowering the flavours.
As a non vegetarian, I was particularly keen to explore the meat and seafood offerings. The meal truly picked up from there. The salmon aburi had both of us exchanging approving glances. Given that this sits in a premium dining destination like One Horizon Center, the presence of both chutoro and otoro sashimi on the menu was encouraging. While the chutoro was excellent, the otoro cuts unfortunately had excessive connective tissue, making them slightly chewy.
Some dishes stood out to the extent that we found ourselves instinctively reaching to clean every last bite. The black cod was unavailable, having been sold out the previous evening, but the miso sea bass from the robata more than made up for it. While black cod is usually my top preference, this dish was good enough to make me reconsider that hierarchy.
The chicken nanban burger deserves a special mention. Served with a fried patty, creamy cheese sauce, and presented on a sizzling tray where you assemble it yourself, it is both interactive and indulgent. It is the kind of dish that will appeal to children just as much as adults, though one needs to be cautious with the hot plate.
Among the other dishes we tried, the kimchi rice, New Zealand lamb chops, mushroom carbonara, and chicken katsu curry were all well executed.
The only misstep was the miso honey toast, where the bread itself fell short of expectations.
As the restaurant has only recently opened, some teething issues are understandable. While the food largely delivers, the sequencing of service needs attention. Our robata dish arrived before the sushi and sashimi, which disrupted the natural flow of the meal. To their credit, the team was receptive to the feedback, and one hopes this will be addressed soon.
Despite these gaps, there is enough here to warrant a revisit. The sea bass, lamb chops, and katsu curry alone make a strong case for returning.
Ratings
Food: 4.0/5 | Service: 2.5/5 | Ambience: 3.5/5 | Overall: 3.5/5
Address: Kimikai – Umami House, First Floor, One Horizon Center, Gurgaon
Phone: 8076205663
Meal for Two: INR 2500
Timings: 12 pm to 12 am
