The invitation email from Taj Palace says “Chef Oberoi unveils the innovative new menu and his book”, and I am thrilled to be invited. Executive Chef Hemant Oberoi is a legend at the Taj, and I have so far not had the opportunity to taste his creations. Excited and hungry, I reach the venue, all ready to dig into the goodness.
What strikes me as I am seated is the multitude of glasses set on the table. As the lunch progresses, these only increase in number, till there is very little place for food (see pic). As others also seat themselves, the afternoon starts with a selection of fresh juices. I choose a refreshing sugarcane juice along with an average tasting amuse bouche of papdi chaat.
The soup course comes first. I am served a broccoli and asparagus broth with an olive and cheese mini-naan. This is the first time that I am served a wine to pair with the soup, which is an Italian Pinot Griggio. The soup has a pleasant depth of taste, and the mini-naan is interesting. Not sure how a chilled wine can add to the soup tasting experience, I sip it after the soup as I wait for the next course.
By now it is evident that there is a clear pecking order in the room as to which table needs to be served first and which one last. As it so happens, ours is the table that is destined to be served last which both amuses and exasperates us. Normally, in professional establishments, such is never the case. Even if one were to overlook this fact, the overall standard of the service throughout the meal remains below par, especially for a hotel of this stature. I along with another colleague are asked for our food preference. In the absence of the tasting menu, our request for a tasting of veg as well as non-veg dishes is declined. So this review, unfortunately, will have to be only of the non-veg food.
The seafood course which is next takes a long time to be served. It is a platter consisting of crab masaledaar with filo, bhatti ka jhinga and seabass tikka. The deboned crab meat and the prawns have both gone dry in the cooking process, but are more than compensated by the perfectly rendered fish tikka, making it one of the best fish tikkas I have had in Delhi. This is served with a nice drop of Rupert and Rothschild Baroness Nadine chardonnay.
The service has picked up pace now. The kabab course that comes next fails to impress. The haleem galawat and the chicken tikka are both ordinary tasting, paired with an unremarkable St Clair New Zealand Pinot Noir.
Just as we finish tasting this round, the table is cleared for the main course. We are served ghee roast chicken over a wax paper that talks about the dish. Accompanying it is potato roast, beans poriyal, gosht akhrot biryani, yellow dal and Indian breads. The chicken is unremarkable because the spices have not been able to permeate the chicken, giving it a bland taste. The potatoes and beans have gone cold in their journey from the kitchen robbing them of any charm they may have had. The biryani is competent though scant in meat pieces. The breads have gone dry by the time they are served, and the humble dal happens to become the highlight of the course.
The dessert course has some excellent dishes. Gajar ka halwa is served inside a filo cigar giving it a crispy counterpoint. Malt covered kulfi and fresh strawberry payasam both surprise with the unexpected twists to familiar tastes.
So, dear readers, the afternoon tasting session has been largely disappointing with some bright sparks like the excellent fish tikka and the desserts. The service however has been inadequate and often uncaring. I can’t help but think that if this is the standard of service we as guests of the hotel had to bear, I wonder how it will be for an average, paying diner? My friend and fellow IFFian Pawan Soni had to go through a nightmare over two years ago and things have not changed very much since then.
What is perplexing is that food elsewhere at Taj Palace can be very good. Food at Blue Ginger and Orient Express is truly world class backed by excellent service. I hope Masala Art does catch up with them some time.
Ratings out of 5
Food: 3.0 | Ambiance: 3.5 | Service: 2.0 | Overall: 2.5
Meal for Two: Rs 3500 | Alcohol: Yes | Credit Card: Yes| Timing: 12:30 PM to 2:45 PM, 6:30 PM to 11:45 PM
Address: Taj Palace Hotel, Diplomatic Enclave, Sardar Patel Marg, New Delhi | Phone: 011 26110202
