Nisaba Delhi Review: Chef Manish Mehrotra’s Most Awaited New Restaurant

The FOMO was real. For weeks, everyone in the food circuit had been talking about Nisaba, the much awaited new restaurant by Chef Manish Mehrotra. Known globally for path breaking restaurants like Indian Accent and Comorin, both of which put Indian cuisine on the world map, Chef Mehrotra parted ways with his earlier ventures about eighteen months ago. Nisaba was always going to be watched closely and it has easily become one of the most talked about launches in recent times.

Nisaba takes its name from the ancient Sumerian goddess of grains. Located in the buzzing new hub near Sunder Nursery, the 120 plus seater restaurant was already packed for a weekday lunch when I visited, soon after it opened to the public. Most food writers and Delhi’s social elite had already experienced it during a week long pre launch, and the buzz was evident right from the entrance.

After some polite persuasion with the parking attendant, we made our way inside and settled into Nisaba’s minimal yet sophisticated space. The music was understated, letting the lively chatter around the room take over. We began with sparkling wine and browsed through the menu, which is largely à la carte, closer in spirit to Comorin than the tasting menus of Indian Accent.
In a brief conversation, Chef Mehrotra shared a thought that resonated. He believes diners today find it difficult to sit through three hour meals focused only on food. With no theatrical performances or gimmicks, the menu reflects how people prefer to eat now. Simple, engaging, and flexible.

What stood out immediately was Chef Mehrotra’s presence on the floor. He visited almost every table, either carrying dishes himself or stopping to take feedback. Despite being an equal partner in the restaurant, his humility remains unchanged. It was no surprise to see diners frequently rising from their seats to request a photograph.
“The food here is not modern Indian or progressive,” he said. “It is food for today’s generation.” With strong influences from Indian street food, we began with Dal Moradabadi served with mini samosas at Rs 550. Frankly, this dish alone could have sustained our entire meal. Perfectly balanced, deeply comforting, and paired with crisp samosas that used mashed potato instead of chopped filling, it was exceptional. Some combinations simply work, and this was one of them.

The Lucknow white matar chaat, also priced at Rs 550, followed. It reminded me of Fateh ki Kachori, with a thinner, crisper matthi topped generously with tikki matar chaat. Familiar yet elevated, it tasted even better than expected.

Among vegetarian starters, we tried the mushroom chops with mushroom makhani sauce and mushroom achaar at Rs 900, and a new age paneer pakoda priced at Rs 975. The mushroom chops were rich and satisfying. The paneer pakoda, while well executed, did not quite grow on us.

From the non vegetarian section, the tiger prawns cooked in dry shrimp butter and served with Goan poee bread at Rs 1475 delivered bold flavours. The use of dry shrimp makes this dish intense, so it may not suit those who prefer milder seafood. We also ordered butter chicken as a starter at Rs 1050. Thick, smoked makhani sauce coated tender boneless chicken, paired with crisp onion rings that added texture and balance.

A personal favourite followed. Chef Mehrotra’s classic Belgian pork ribs at Rs 1300, paired with sweet mango chunda, remain as memorable as ever. It is a dish I never miss at Indian Accent, and it continues to impress.

By the time mains arrived, we were already comfortably full. Still, the Zaveri Bazaar tadka dal at Rs 875, fragrant with hing and served with ajwaini roti, was hard to resist. The kadhai potato with jakhiya seeds and crisp fried potato bites at Rs 650 delivered rustic flavours with finesse.

The pit roasted pineapple curry at Rs 925, served with set dosa and rice, was another standout. Each vegetarian dish was a masterclass in balance and creativity. When vegetarian food appeals equally to committed non vegetarians, it speaks volumes about the chef’s craft.

Among the non vegetarian mains, the Motihari mutton with hing kachori at Rs 1525 impressed with its depth of flavour and beautifully cooked meat. If I had to choose just one main course to return for, this would be it. The baked Amritsari river sole at Rs 1175 surprised us with a topping of fine pudina boondi that added both crunch and freshness. It was served with mishrikand, a sweet textured ingredient that was new to me and added a pleasant contrast.

Dessert was non negotiable. The house made potato chips with chashni miso vanilla ice cream at Rs 650 was playful and addictive. The baked rasmalai with nolen gur makhana at Rs 700 was comforting without being heavy. My clear favourite was the dhoda tart with pecan ice cream at Rs 750. None of the desserts tried too hard, yet each one delivered.

You may come to Nisaba for the food and find it easy to navigate a thoughtfully curated forty dish menu. But you will return for the warmth of the service, the chef’s quiet humility, and the calm, inviting ambience. Nisaba has arrived, and Delhi has a new winner on its hands.

Nisaba, Address: Humayun World Heritage Site Museum, Nizamuddin, National Zoological Park, Sundar Nagar, New Delhi | Phone: 9810906091