Pendulo Delhi: Chef Led Mexican Indian Experience

We were driving back from the market in Delhi when hunger struck. I had heard that Pendulo near Qutub Minar serves Mexican and Indian flavours curated by Chef Megha Kohli, formerly of Lavash by Saby which once stood at the same location, and Chef Noah Barnes of Tabula and Miss Margarita. I walked in knowing only the cuisine. The team informed us that, for now, they serve a set course menu priced at seven thousand for non vegetarian and six thousand for vegetarian. The ala carte menu will take a little more time. Since we arrived early, getting a table was easy though both the main chefs were travelling out of country.

The interiors are quite striking. Lamps shaped like Mexican agave, playful signages on the walls, jars of spices placed on the table, dim lights, a live sitar player and a well stocked bar give the space a romantic and slightly dramatic mood. For a place that focuses strongly on food, a touch more lighting would help diners appreciate the plates better.

The service team is well trained and explained the concept of Pendulo with confidence. Each dish carries both Indian and Mexican influences, and a small pendulum sketch on the menu shows which way the dish leans.

We began with a palate cleansing drink made with corn, Oaxacan cheese and jaggery. It was surprisingly refreshing. The second course felt like a nachos and papad combination served with a range of dips. The dips moved from guacamole to spicy adobo, smoked salsa and a foamy pico de gallo. It paired well with the only cocktail I ordered, a mezcal based Fuego Kokum.

The next dish was a Mexican street food classic called elotes built around grilled corn. The seasoning is what truly lifted it. Tajin, bhaang seed salt, garlic salt and a squeeze of lemon. Three pieces of corn in a twelve course menu may sound a lot, but they were delicious enough to overlook that thought.

This is when I saw a familiar tall figure walking in. Sahil Baweja, the owner of Pendulo, had stepped in to check if everything was alright. I had met him once almost a decade ago during a very formal introduction. This time I requested him to join us for a bit. His educational background is remarkable. I cannot think of many restaurateurs in India who have graduated from INSEAD in France, one of the finest business schools in the world, and then chosen to build a restaurant here. A bold choice in every way. In conversation, I learnt about his other ventures including Chica Loca and Potions where his partner is Sunny Leone.

The food continued to impress. The tuna served in a tomato shorba infused with tigers milk was flavourful, though I would have preferred a slightly thicker cut of tuna. The crab tostada was a delight. They prepare it in reverse and every element deserves a repeat.

The menu may seem expensive at first glance, but the moment the apple wood smoked lobster tail arrived, the pricing felt justified. Then came Maharashtrian thecha and chicken stuffed inside a bharwan chilli. The gentle sweetness of jaggery to soften the heat was a clever touch.

After a lemon based palate cleanser, we were served tacos. One with mutton birria and the other with Coorg style pandi pulled pork. Hunger and curiosity both worked in my favour and I polished them off with full attention.

If you still have space, the final savoury course is a comforting plate of mole sauce served with a small portion of rice and Awadhi lamb. The meal ends on a playful note with jalebi churros.

Pendulo is ideal for a special night when you want to sit back, relax and let the kitchen take over the decisions. If you enjoy slow dining and thoughtful flavours, you will appreciate this. I only hope they introduce a wine paired menu soon.

Address: Pendulo, 1st Floor, Ambawatta 1, Mehrauli, Near Qutub Minar, New Delhi | Phone: 8800346565