The Ultimate Foodie Guide to Jama Masjid, Delhi

Winters are fast approaching. For any self respecting foodie, now is the time to bring out the walking shoes and head for Jama Masjid. The most expeditious and comfortable way to get there is to take the metro to Chawri Bazaar metro station. Come out and take a cycle rickshaw to Matia Mahal gate. A ride for two reasonably sized people will cost Rs 20-30.

Once at Matia Mahal, enter Gali Kababian. This is where a key choice has to be made. Are you comfortable and looking forward to eating buff meat or not? If the answer is no, then your best bet is to enter Al Jawahar on your left. This review done earlier should serve as a guide.

If however you are adventurous and are not only comfortable eating buff and offal, but in fact are looking forward to an adventure, walk a few steps ahead to Al Karam. Make your beginning with a piping hot paya (trotters) and nihari with hot off the tandoor rotis. These excellent appetizers will put your stomach in the zone for the goodness that is to follow.

Next stop is babu bhai ke kabab served along a masjid wall, operating a few feet below street level. This place is famous for its dori kababs and tikkas. The dori kababs are so soft that they have to be tied with a string to keep them on the skewer, to keep them melt-in-mouth intact. What blows my mind is the heart tikkas which are at once crisp, soft and so addictive that no one can eat just one. These must be had just-off-the- griddle piping hot.

It is now time for haleem. This is true blue Delhi haleem on a big gate on the left and guy sits on the right hand as soon as you turn. Unlike its more famous Hyderabadi cuisine, here the texture is not as smooth, and yet it is as soft, as meaty, and in my opinion much more enjoyable than the Deccan version. Eat some and get some packed.

Walk further and along the way, do some pateela peeping. You may find some more delicacies, like I found some amazing shalgam meat. As the famous line goes, keep walking. As the gali kababian turns left, go leftwards towards haveli azam khan for the legendary achaari biryanis at Dil Pasand Biryani. It is quite easily one of the best biryanis available in India, and an experience to be savoured.

If you have tried all the recommendations, you should be quite full by now. But wait, there is dessert to be had yet. Retrace your steps back and you will soon reach Sheeren Bhawan which is famous for its clove based habshi halva, Sohan Halwa, Aloevera halwa and other pieces of deliciousness. Or you can opt for the wonderful shahi tukde a few shops ahead. Or you could skip the desserts and opt for a cup of malai-mar-ke chai a few shops away.

Jama Masjid has some superb food to offer in its bye lanes. To get the true flavour, avoid restaurants like Karim, and go right in to explore. The dishes are all priced in the range of Rs 10-20. You are sure to come back with a smile on your face, and a song on your lips.