Purani Dilli’s Al-Karam Kebab House: Gurgaon’s own Jama Masjid

Numerous number of times I have gone to the labyrinth lanes of Jama Masjid’s Matia Mahal to savour kebabs, biryani, nihari, haleem, fruit kulfi’s and shahi tukda both alone as well as leading facebook groups for people who want to get the ‘real’ flavour. The events are always a sold out even if it means laborious three-hour metro ride, rickshaw ride and walking and eating on those narrow lanes where personal space is as much constrained as hygiene. Karim’s make good mutton seekh kebab but it has never been my favourite given the toned down the spices for the huge ‘phoren’ clientele and when buff is a rare commodity in Delhi-NCR one does not want to waste time on the regular mutton and chicken at Jama Masjid. Karim’s has few outlets in other parts of Delhi including Gurgaon but they are not even at par with the parent.

When I received a call from Varun Veigas that they have started a sister outlet of Purani Dilli’s Al-Karam Kebab House, I was little excited. I still visited the small 10-seater outlet at Supermart-1 where I have seen Soya Express and Roll-Me changing hands in the span of last 3 years. Primarily a take away and delivery outlet, the seating and decor are very basic and as expected. Happy to see the dori Kebab (Rs 125/ 2 big piece) also known as sutli kebab in the menu, it is my natural choice. I don’t think this kebab is available anywhere else in Gurgaon. This kebab has more of gilawat (tenderiser) to make the mince very soft and without the dori the mince will not hold on the skewer. Some also say that sutli imparts its own flavour to the kebab. I also order for Al-Karam’s Purani Dilli style chicken Tikka (Rs 125/half plate) which has cream-curd dressing on the top along with the sprinkled masala along with half a plate of normal chicken tikka (Rs120). I must say that each of these kebabs is a treat. Very soft, juicy and cooked to perfection! The kebabs are a high on spices and just as hot as one would get in old Delhi. There is no attempt to tame down the spice levels to appeal to majority and I like it.

Chicken Seekh Kebab (Rs 125) and Fish Tikka (Rs200) are next. Fish is cooked well but fails to leave an impression, however Chicken Seekh Kebab is remarkable. Exactly like how a good seekh kebab should be. The only disaster for me at Al-Karam’s is the Raan (Rs 800). The huge full one leg portion was under marinated and needed more tenderizer to make it equally cooked from inside and retain its flavours. In a good raan, the pieces should come off the bone using hands and the shreds should be visible from inside.

By this time I joined Avanti Mathur, a popular pastry chef and chocolatier from Sweet Nothings who was visiting the restaurant. A normal chit-chat ensued while the main course arrived; Mutton Quorma, Mutton Stew, Mutton Nihari, Haleem and Fish Quorma (Rs120 each). Fish quorma is not part of the menu at Al Karam but it immediately draws attention with methi and slight coconut flavour. Without getting into the authenticity, I loved the dish. All the dishes provide an excellent value for money and the restaurant that does not even charge any further tax. I just missed a piece of nalli in my nihari but along with some good khamiri roti (Rs 30) and lively conversation, we obviously overate. The only concern here is the haleem where I mostly tasted daal and desi ghee. The owner acknowledged the mistake and mentioned in absence of head chef who serves the portion, a newbie has taken the portion from the top instead of scooping from the bottom. Point taken! Given the outlet is just 2-days old there would be small training gaps initially.

My favourite biryani at Jama Masjid is buff achaari biryani at Matia Mahal. Given the area no one makes the mutton version, while I have many friends who want to taste that but does not eat buff. Al-Karam is offering the same achaari biryani (Rs120) in chicken and mutton. It is equally good, but my choice of meat will remain buff which Al-Karam is not offering given the majorities sensibilities of the people in Gurgaon.

We are over stuffed but cannot leave without desserts. Habshi Halwa (Rs 60), another first in Gurgaon is on the table. Known for increasing the stamina for men in love making, it is made with boiling milk for over 8-hours till it is reduced to black mess. Mixed with maida, sprouted wheat, dry fruits and desi ghee, it is a calorie bomb however very tasty.

Phirni is nice but I like paan flavoured phirni (Rs 60 each) better. With real paan leaves bite and gulukand mixed in the phirni, this is another dish that one will only find at Al-Karam in Gurgaon.

If saving best for the last is a phrase that fits in so well anywhere then it is here. Kuremal is another kulfi shop shop at old Delhi where I frequently visit. This person does not use any artificial flavours but real fruits. His products are exported as well as many leading five stars source from him. However, I always wondered why no one has taken a lead in Gurgaon to save us the trouble and making it available locally. And Al-Karam has done it. Avantika and I tried all four available flavours – Rose, Anjeer, Paan and Kesar Pista (Rs 60 each) and till the end could not conclude which one is better than the other. In this artificial world, getting something so natural is a treat in itself. Paan Kulfi had a big chunk of real paan hidden inside and provided a perfect ending to a beautiful evening.

There is chicken changezi, Mutter-Ghee-Keema, Shahi Tukda, Bakarkhaani and many other must-eat dishes at Al-Karam for my subsequent visits and finally I have found the best alternative of a quick Purani Dilli style meal in my own backyard.

Ratings (out of 5)

Ambience: NA | Food: 4.0 | Service: NA | Overall: 4.0

Alcohol: No | Credit Card: No | Meal for two:  ₹600/- | Home Delivery: Yes

Address: Purani Dilli’s Al-Karam Kebab House, A-133, Supermart-1, DLF Phase-4, Gurgaon| Telephone: 9910087760/ 9818838230